Culinary wunderkind Zach Gutweiler lands at Reed's Hollow
Fans of chef Zach Gutweiler, who worked at Hole in the Wall inside The Gas Lamp, no longer have to wonder where is cooking. He’s officially in his very own kitchen serving up his amped up street food fare at Reed’s Hollow, the recently opened restaurant and bar that takes over the former Tally’s space in Beaverdale.
Now instead of churning out food prepared in the tiny Hole in the Wall kitchen, Gutweiler has an entire kitchen, real plates and silverware, linen napkins and a new reason to experiment.
“That’s the thing when you have a kitchen, you can cook so fast,” Gutweiler said on a recent night at the restaurant.
The food here remains elevated. So don’t expect a beer cheese on the menu to be what you expect. No, the dish that comes out may have those ingredients but it’s presented in a completely different way.
For example, the salmon taquitos feature spicy salmon tartar wrapped inside a paper made of butternut squash with a tapioca puree on top.
That loaded baked potato soup uses shaved radishes and skins of potatoes for a riff on radishes and butter. Those potato skins were cooked in yeast from Exile Brewing Co.
The adventurous should go for the PBJ salad, with big Romaine leaves tied together and holding pecan butter with wild dandelions, an aronia berry jam and vinegar pine needles inside this handheld salad cleverly tied together.
In fact, the burger and fries is probably the only item on the menu that looks just like what it is.
The menu is just one of those things you’ll have to try for yourself to see what comes out. Gutweiler is good about bringing dishes to the table and describing the recipe to make sure guests know what they’re getting.
Bar snacks include barbecue pork rinds with a kick of heat, beet curly fries, antelope jerky and Brussels sprouts, all in the $1 to $7 range. The tiny main menu includes bone marrow, fried pickles, potato skins and duck egg, a pork and corn stroganoff and Not Barbecue beef rib, which Gutweiler cooks sous vide style. That dish clocks in at $25, the most expensive item on the menu, but comes with velouté creamed potatoes, burnt kale powder and mushrooms in a beer syrup.
For now, the restaurant portion of Reed’s Hollow, named for the former ice cream shop in Beaverdale along with the coal mines of the area, is open from 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays with the bar open later.
The bartenders were still tinkering with speciality cocktails earlier this month, but hope to use some of the ingredients from the kitchen when making their drinks. A beet sangria, a gin and armoni berry, and a spicy orange Moscow mule with Fresno peppers were just some of the samplings.
The Tally’s space itself looks different as well with 110-year-old salvaged barn wood lining the walls and a different, less eclectic layout. Edison lights hang from the ceiling. When the weather warms up, expect the rooftop deck to reopen.
Gutweiler says he hopes to have mussels on the menu when the patio opens, along with special themes on different days.
Find It: 2712 Beaver Ave., Des Moines
Info: 515-777-3625; Facebook